Making Adjustments to Casual Pants, Part 1

I have thoroughly enjoyed watching so many people tackle pants over in the Facebook Group! Seriously, you all are a bunch of rockstars! In this post I’m going to go through how I assessed the fit on my Lander Pants and some of the adjustments I made. But first a disclaimer – I have not had any training in fitting, I just learn as I go. So please take everything with a grain of salt and I hope there is something helpful in here for you!

Making The Muslin

For my muslin, I used a woven chambray since my final garment will be in non-stretch corduroy. Even though my muslin is lighter weight than my corduroy, I decided it would be fine to use for two reasons: 1) The corduroy has more give than the muslin fabric, so it cancels out the weight difference and 2) there is wiggle room on the actual pattern, since there are 1 in. seam allowances on the side seams.

I cut a straight size 6. My waist is 29-30 in. and my hips are 38 in. I had read that some other people had sized down or wished they would have, so I picked the smaller size and it ended up being great! Here is my muslin, cut straight from the pattern, no changes.

    First Muslin with No Adjustments

    Assessing The Fit and Making Adjustments

    First up is the obvious gaping in the back. This is normal for me; I anticipated it! In this picture, I am able to pinch out a total of 3 inches around the back waist area. Here’s what I did to get all 3 in. removed:

    1) 1/2 in. off of the center back seam (1 in. total), tapering down to nothing a little before the crotch curve.

    2) Widen the back darts a 1/4 in. on each side of the dart. This removed 1/2 in. per side, totaling to another inch.

    3) Because I have now taken out two full inches from the back, it has pulled the side seam back. So for the last inch that still needs removed I am taking it off of the front leg piece, a 1/2 in. on each side ( again, 1 in. total), tapering down to nothing.

    Here are some pictures of what those changes look like on the pattern.

      Top Picture: Adjustments 1 and 2 (as well as the back rise adjustment – mentioned later) drawn in. Bottom Picture: Adjustments 1 and 2 (and back rise adjustment) after being cut off.

      Now you might notice the extra line on the top right. I’ll get to that in a bit. This next picture is Adjustment 3. For this, I also had to shave a bit off of the side of the front pocket to match my new side seam curve.

        Top Picture: Adjustment 3 drawn in. Bottom Picture: Adjustment 3 after being cut off.

        Next was the rise. From the picture below, I decided I wanted a half inch taken off of the front rise only, so I did that at the lengthen/shorten line. You can actually see that adjustment in the picture above. Then, in order for the side seams to match up, I needed to take a half inch off of the back rise as well. I knew I couldn’t afford to lose any rise through the center back so I took off the half inch at the top from side seam, tapering to nothing at the dart. This is the extra line I was talking about a few paragraphs back in the pictures with Adjustments 1 and 2.

          Front Muslin View

          The only other thing I did to the front was to scoop out the crotch curve a tad. I realize there are wrinkles pulling from the back to stretch over my stomach. I deal with belly bloat that fluctuates 3-4 in. daily. I have learned that it is better for me to fit the smaller size stomach, so that when my bloat is down, my pants aren’t really loose and falling off! So I just ignore those wrinkles and let the fabric stretch over my stomach when I’m bloated.

          Lastly, I removed 1 1/2 in. of length out of the leg so that they are just barely above the floor with flat shoes (which is what I usually wear – I’m wearing heels here).

          In my next post, I will be showing what all these changes look like on my muslin and deciding if I need to do anything else. Hint: I do! I’ll be changing the straight waistband that comes with the Lander Pants pattern into a curved waistband to fit the shape of my body better.

          I would love to hear if you have anything to add to these adjustments! And if you are stuck on a fitting issue, be sure to post over in the Facebook group for more opinions and advice. You’ve totally got this!!

          Happy Fitting,

          Evelyn

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